I traveled through Taiwan for almost 4 weeks in March 2026, starting in Taipei and making my way through the whole island by train. My stops were: Taipei, Hualien, Taitung, Kaohsiung, Tainan, Chiayi (one night), Sun Moon Lake, Taichung, and back to Taipei.
March is technically shoulder season — expect mostly overcast skies, occasional rain, and mild temperatures in the cities. It’s not the most photogenic weather, but crowds are manageable and it’s perfectly comfortable for cycling and walking. Mountain areas like Alishan can get genuinely cold in March, which factored into my decisions along the way.
I skipped some popular tourist destinations — not always on purpose, but I adjusted the trip to my own tempo. In hindsight, 3 to 4 weeks felt like slightly too much. If I were doing it again, I’d cut it to 2 to 3 weeks, focus more on trails and mountain areas, and spend less time in cities. That said, here’s everything I learned — what’s worth it, what’s a tourist trap, and how to get around without overthinking it.
How Much Does Taiwan Cost?
Taiwan is affordable by most standards, but costs vary noticeably between cities. Taipei and Chiayi felt comparatively expensive, while Tainan and Hualien were noticeably cheaper.
Accommodation:
- Taipei: budget around €400–500 for 4–5 nights for a decent, clean hotel
- Smaller cities: comfortable rooms are easy to find for €100–200 for the same period
Food:
- Local restaurants and canteen-style spots: around 100 TWD per meal (roughly €3)
- Western-style or sit-down restaurants: 300–500 TWD (€9–15)
- A stop at 7-Eleven for snacks and drinks: 200–300 TWD
Eating local is genuinely good — Taiwan’s food culture is one of the best things about the trip — so there’s no real reason to default to Western food unless you’re craving a break after a few weeks.
How to Get Around Taiwan
Train is the best and most affordable way to travel between cities. I used normal trains only (not the high-speed rail) and booked all tickets through the official iOS app called Taiwan Railway e-booking — easy to use, has English, and you can pay with Apple Pay. You get a QR code for boarding. Train rides often come with great views: mountains, rice fields, and long stretches along the coastline. Trains are generally on time — though once I had a 5-hour delay instead of 2, which apparently is very rare.
Get an EasyCard at any 7-Eleven right after you land. You’ll use it for buses and metro across every city.
For bikes, download the YouBike app. Electric and regular bikes are available in almost every city. No Taiwanese phone number needed, but they’ll hold a deposit of around $100 which gets returned to your card.
Currency exchange: do it at the airport right after landing. Taiwan doesn’t have street exchange booths — only banks, and you’ll need your passport. If you miss the airport, there’s a good exchange at Shin Kong Mitsukoshi in Taipei (B1 floor, near the main station).
What to Do in Taipei
Getting from Taipei Taoyuan Airport into the city is simple — take the airport MRT directly to the city center. Affordable and straightforward.
Dihua Street — this was my first real taste of “classic Taiwan” and it made a strong impression. It’s a short street, walkable in about 15 minutes, with a mix of local old shops, souvenir stores, and overpriced specialty coffee. Touristy but genuinely charming. Don’t skip it.
Dalongdong Baoan Temple — a large and impressive temple, worth visiting. You can walk there directly from Dihua Street.
Ximending — if you don’t mind crowds, it’s worth seeing at least once. Think tall buildings covered in neon advertising, a central intersection where street performers draw big audiences. It’s lively and very Taipei. Nearby there’s a great brunch spot called 飽滿廚房 Ö! in DINER — their chicken quesadillas with salad are solid. Also around the area you’ll find a huge wall of murals, proper large-scale street art if that’s your thing.
Huashan 1914 Creative Park — worth half an hour. Mostly souvenir shops and cafés, but it draws a younger crowd and has a good atmosphere. Fair warning: almost all “creative art spaces” in Taiwan follow the same template. Not a bad thing, just worth knowing so you don’t expect something groundbreaking. I found an excellent vinyl record shop here with floor-to-ceiling shelves.
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall — worth going if you have time. The scale is impressive, and the surrounding area includes a nice park and the National Theater. I took the metro a couple stops and didn’t regret it — a pleasant walk overall.
Jiufen Old Street — honestly, I’d skip it. It takes over an hour by bus from Taipei, and it’s basically one street of souvenir shops that feels purpose-built for tourists. I arrived in heavy rain, turned around immediately, and didn’t feel like I missed much.
Recommended hotels in Taipei:
- Rido Hotel — clean and classy, a bit far from the center but close to the metro
- Finders Hotel – Fu Qian — nice lounge area, a little noisy, but well-located near the main station
What to Do in Hualien
Hualien has a specific atmosphere. The mountains are visible from almost everywhere in the city, which gives it a different feel compared to other Taiwanese cities. However, the region was hit by a major earthquake in 2024 (dozens of casualties, including hikers on mountain trails) and then a severe typhoon in 2025, which crushed local tourism. When I visited, around 80–90% of businesses were closed. The city felt a bit quiet and hollow — not unpleasant, just noticeably affected.
Qixingtan Beach — one of the highlights of my entire trip. The scenery is genuinely stunning, and the ocean makes these deep, almost cosmic sounds against the black pebble shore. I rode there by bike and came back through cycling trails after dark — no lighting, bats flying overhead, something rustling in the grass, a couple of stray dogs running across the path. A little spooky, a little fun. Not recommended solo at night if you’re not into that, but if you want a bit of an adventure, go for it.
Hualien Gangtian Temple — an enormous temple on the way to Qixingtan Beach. You can go up to the second and third floors. Worth stopping.
Liyu Lake — I biked 20km to get there. The road has a steep uphill section where you’ll need to walk the bike for part of it. Worth knowing: the road around the lake was closed when I visited, apparently due to earthquake damage — recovery is estimated at 7 to 10 years.
Cycling routes — the trails called 初英自行車道 and 水利生態步道（吉野大圳） are really enjoyable. Quiet, minimal people, you ride alongside a water canal surrounded by greenery. On the way back you can detour through vast rice fields. Note that Hualien doesn’t have YouBike stations — you’ll need to rent from a local shop. I used 「腳踏實地」自行車出租 / Hualien Haibin Bicycle Rental 10-1, no complaints.
Recommended hotel: Long To Sea Again — run by a friendly local family. The owner gave me a lift to the train station on my checkout day and brought me local breakfast on the first morning. Clean, affordable, genuinely hospitable.
What to Do in Taitung
Taitung is Taiwan’s cycling city. The whole region is built around biking — dedicated paths everywhere and electric bike rental spots around the city. If cycling is a main reason you’re coming to Taiwan, this is a priority stop.
I only stayed two nights and kept it light after logging 50km days in Hualien. I rode through Taitung Forest Park, which was pleasant, and explored the city streets. If cycling isn’t your main focus, there’s honestly not a lot else to do here.
Recommended hotel: Norden Ruder Hostel Taitung — small rooms but a great lounge with a guitar and piano, free tea and snacks, clean and modern. The hotel has a self-service bike repair station in the lobby and wall mounts in each room for hanging your bike. They also have a travel notebook in each room — when it fills up, they put it in hotel library. I wrote something in mine.
What to Do in Kaohsiung
Kaohsiung is a big city and has things to do, but it didn’t leave a particularly strong impression on me. One notable detail: parts of the city smell distinctly like rotten eggs mixed with incense. You’ll know it when you get there.
Dragon and Tiger Pagodas — a classic Kaohsiung stop, and actually quite nice. You can walk through both structures — legend has it entering through the dragon’s mouth and exiting through the tiger’s brings good luck and removes bad fortune. I rode a bike around the area.
Hongmaogang Cultural Park — worth it if you’re spending a few days in the city. A decent walk along the pier.
Food spots in Kaohsiung:
- 妙善公主素食養心鍋 — local vegetarian restaurant, this is where I had hot pot for the first time. Recommend.
- Trunk Pizza 後車廂披薩 — small spot selling pizza by the slice. Good, casual, quick.
I skipped the giant Buddha statue — reviews made it seem like a tourist trap and I’m comfortable with that call.
What to Do in Tainan (Must-Visit City)
Tainan was my favorite city in Taiwan. It’s smaller and more compact than the rest, with narrow streets, older architecture, and a concentration of good food and local life. It genuinely feels different — more authentic, more walkable, less like every other Taiwanese city.
Shennong Street — a short, photogenic street with cafés and a carefully curated old-Taiwan aesthetic. Yes, it’s partly designed for Instagram, but it’s still a pleasant stroll.
Snail Alley — narrow alleys with small independent cafés. Worth wandering through.
Anping Tree House — I biked over, looked at it from outside, and decided not to buy a ticket. It’s an old building with a tree growing through it. If you’ve been to Angkor Wat or similar, this probably won’t move you.
Hayashi Department Store — a multi-floor souvenir shop in a historic building. Fine to walk through briefly.
Food spots in Tainan:
- Chilldren 小孩吃素 (台南新美店) — excellent vegetarian restaurant with great atmosphere. One of the best meals of the trip.
- 給我咬一口 披薩專門店 — tiny, cozy spot with thin crust pizza and a very friendly owner.
- 欣自然蔬食 — local vegetarian place, the mushroom noodles were particularly good.
One Night in Chiayi
I originally planned to stop here before heading to Alishan, but changed my mind along the way and went to Sun Moon Lake instead. If you have a night to spare, the Lantan Trail around the lake is a decent walk.
On Alishan: I’ll be honest about why I skipped it. Alishan in March can be genuinely cold — especially at altitude — and I wasn’t in the mood to freeze. I’d also been walking a lot by that point, accommodation prices there felt high for what you get (particularly if you’re not booking well in advance), and a part of me suspected it might be overhyped. Maybe I’ll find out I was wrong someday, but I don’t regret the call.
Is Sun Moon Lake Worth Visiting?
Yes — and I say that as someone who expected a tourist trap.
From Chiayi I took a train to Taichung, then bus 6670 to Sun Moon Lake (about 2 hours). I’d recommend two nights so you get one full day on the water.
The cycling trail around the lake is reportedly ranked among the best in the world by CNN — I was skeptical, but it’s genuinely enjoyable. I rented an electric scooter instead of a bike and did the full loop of around 40km with ease. The scenery holds up.
Recommended accommodation: 日月潭五船民宿 5Boat B&B — clean room, good breakfast, nice location.
Should You Visit Taichung? (Short Answer: Probably Not)
There’s not much to do in Taichung as a tourist destination. I made it my last stop before returning to Taipei.
The Dakeng Scenic Area trails are not bad— fairly long hikes with good nature. Worth it if you enjoy that kind of thing.
Food: If you need a break from Taiwanese food, BABA Indian Restaurant is solid.
Otherwise, I wouldn’t add Taichung to a 2 to 3 week itinerary unless you’re specifically chasing those trails.
Final Thoughts
Taiwan is genuinely worth it — the food culture alone makes it one of the more interesting places I’ve traveled. After Hong Kong, Taiwan felt noticeably more interesting, more characterful, and more affordable. Cities generally look and feel similar to each other, with Tainan being the clearest exception. Cycling and hiking are central to the culture and honestly the best reason to come. If you’re planning 2 to 3 weeks, prioritize the east coast, Sun Moon Lake, Tainan, and Taipei — and leave room for wherever the bikes take you.
March is a fine time to visit — just don’t expect sunshine. Pack a light rain jacket, keep your schedule flexible, and don’t book mountain accommodation at the last minute unless you’re ready to pay for it.
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